New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.3293af. Print; (5.75 x 8 in). These are high-necked and long-sleeved. More frequently, a womans hair was arranged in ringlets and curls, often entwined with bandeaux, ribbons, and jeweled combs (Figs. 2 - Designer unknown (Indian for the Western market). They were frequently made in the same fabric as the jacket and trousers. 270. Painting Skin: John Singer Sargents Madame X.. Representing the Modern Woman: The Fashion Plate Reconsidered (1865-1875). In, De Young, Justine. 1820 According to an 1820 edition of La Belle Assemble, popular sleeves for evening dresses at the beginning of the year were "short and full." Skeleton suit, ca. Fig. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, E.564-1956. Zieseniss, Charles Otto, and Katell Le Bourhis, eds. Majer, Michele, Lenard R. Berlanstein, Marlis Schweitzer, and Sheila Stowell, eds. Lieut-Colonel Bryce McMurdo, ca. The Museum cares for one of the nation's foremost collections of men's, women's, and children's garments and accessoriesfrom wedding gowns and military uniforms to Halloween . The braid, frogging, Brandenburg buttons, and tassels served as inspiration in civilian mens and womenswear for years (Johnston 14, 20). 5). Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Red River cart, mid-1800s. Pope Family Trust Private Collection. Introduction to 19th-Century Fashion, January 25, 2011. In fact, he was a constant target of ridicule throughout the decade. Source: Map Mania, 1800-1809, 19th century, artwork analysis, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 19th century, P, term definition, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 1820-1829, 18th century, 19th century, S, term definition, 1790-1799, 1800-1809, 1810-1819, 19th century, J, S, term definition. The most extreme manifestations of the Revolutionary classical dress, such as the dampening of gowns so that they clung to the body, were rarely seen after 1800; indeed, those radical fashions had seldom ever been seen outside of France (C.W. It was usually paired with loose knee-breeches and gaiters (Tortora 401; Laver 202, 204). Printed cotton. Drawers were increasingly worn, but the long skirts hid these bifurcated garments from view (P. Cunnington 194-197; Buck 106, 211). Court costumes, increasingly diverged from fashion, continued for decades (Marschner). They began to slowly be accepted as informal wear, especially at the seaside (Davidson 258-259; Foster 28; Byrde 93). Assigned to the Louvre, 1879. 5), were borrowed from the German Hessian soldiers, and a different, more practical style was named for British military hero, the Duke of Wellington (Davidson 232). Los Angeles, CA: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.399. However, this made them a nightmare to sit in - so women switched to trailing dresses by the end of the century. 6). Source: ArtUK. Glass photonegative; (7 x 5 in). 1 - John Russell (British, 1745-1806). 1882. 10 - Emile Pingat (French, 1820-1901). Source: National Galleries Scotland, Fig. Professor John Wilson (nom de plume, "Christopher North"), 1785-1854, ca. Properly wrapping and tying the cravat was a principle concern of well-dressed men, and several manuals were available to consult for the correct method (Byrde 94). Last updated Aug 24, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Oct 14, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated May 16, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Nov 2, 2020 | Published on Mar 26, 2020. The era can be viewed as one long stream of contradictionsa time of prosperity interrupted by the Long Depression of 1873-1879 and the Panic of 1893. 2, 5). Very small children, up to age two or three, could be seen without any leg coverings under these frocks (Fig. Products: Shirt, Skirt, Boots, Hat, Earrings. David, Alison Matthews. Notably, the reticule, a small drawstring handbag, became a standard element of a womans outfit (Fig. 1885. Dress historian Hilary Davidson wrote that mens court clothing during the early nineteenth century was the last bastion of eighteenth-century styles (210). 13 - Artist unknown (British). 1): a velvet suit of knee-breeches and soft jacket, flowing tie, and sometimes a Cavalier inspired cloak and hat (Tortora 384). 1 - Edgard Farasyn (Belgian, 1858-1938). Oil on canvas; (49 1/2 x 36 3/4 in). Fig. Les Demoiselles de Province, 1885. Gothic ornament began to appear by 1810, and fanciful elements of pastoral dress were also seen (Byrde 24). Outerwear and accessories were essential elements of the period, often introducing pops of color (Ashelford 178). After about 1888, the bustle began to slowly shrink in size until 1891, when it gave way to the bell-shaped skirts of the 1890s (Fukai 239). Not Just a Pretty Picture: Fashion as News. In, Font, Lourdes M. International Couture: The Opportunities and Challenges of Expansion, 18801920., Garb, Tamar. 8 - Designer unknown (British). These rare photos from the 1860s show us daily life in America during the 19th century. French dominance of women's fashion was absolute during the 19th century. 5 - Jean-Bernard Duvivier (Belgian, 1762-1837). This innovation led to the rise of the garment industry sweatshop. Source: Bonhams Auctions. Textiles of the 1800s were often enriched with embroidery, one of the few elements permitted to disrupt the classical line. 1880s. Pinterest. 11 - Designer unknown. It was common for the skirt to be pleated (Fig. The cage crinoline was invented in the mid-1800s and was constructed to have a framework made of steel, whalebone, or cane. Bath, U.K.: Fashion Museum Bath. 1, 5). Three quarter length portrait of elderly lady in a plaid dress, ca. Chronologie de La Mode 1715-1914, n.d. Red River carts were ubiquitous in Minnesota and the Dakota Territory in the early and mid-19th century. Woman with a fan made of feathers, ca. In the 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve of womenswear in its use of a new fullness at the sleeve cap. 2). Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2010.33.15a-b. Dress (round gown), ca. The imperial commissions alone saved the French fashion industry which had been decimated during the Revolution (Fukai 125; le Bourhis 84-94, 100). Interest in classical antiquity had been growing throughout the second half of the eighteenth century, following the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Jeff, George, Oliver, and Lillie Wayes, 1880s. 1 - Jacques-Louis David (French, 1748-1825). Albumen print; 9.7 x 13.6 cm. Albumen silver cabinet card; (5 1/2 x 4 in). London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, T.24-1946. The fashion landscape had changed radically and rapidly; the way that women dressed in 1800 stood in stark contrast to the dress of a generation earlier. 1880s Fashion: Men, 1880s. Cunnington 26). In 1885, the famous Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde wrote in his essay, The Philosophy of Dress: Fashion rests upon folly. Source: Royal Collection Trust. 6 - Jens Juel (Danish, 1745-1802). Source: The Victoria & Albert Museum, Fig. Victorian Era: Second Bustle Period and Aesthetic Dress (1883-1890), n.d. Burnham, Helen. Fig. 12 - Designer unknown (English or American). Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Tennis Players, ca. Fashion Timeline: 1880 To 1890, n.d. Victoria and Albert Museum. A famous anecdote recalls a visitor finding Brummell and his valet next to a pile of crumpled cravats. By 1884, the bustle had returned, this time a hard, shelf-like protrusion that projected from the small of the back (Fig. Harper holds a Masters degree in Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the Fashion Institute of Technology. Pinterest. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015. 1850-1877: Lifestyles, Social Trends, and Fashion: Overview The American Spirit at Midcentury. Source: Wikimedia, Fig. Saint-Mars, Gabrielle Anne Cisterne de Courtiras. The look was completed with his long, smoothly curled hairstyle (Lambourne 134-135). 1800-1810. A crowd of folks gather around the Glen Mountain House in Watkins Glen, New York. These new hairstyles were referred to asla Titus or Brutus, underscoring their classical inspirations (Davidson 57; Laver 153). Cunnington 26). New York: The Brooklyn Museum, 1989.28. Jules Amde Barbey dAurevilly wrote Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummell in 1845, which raised dandyism to the level of a philosophical and intellectual pursuit, a trend that continued throughout the nineteenth century. Then, at about age three or four, a boy was breeched, a rite of passage in which he received his first trousers. However, it was the violently shifting politics at the end of the eighteenth century that spurred this style to the forefront. Either style was made of fine, felted wool, which could be molded to the body, in dark colors such as blue, black, brown, red, and green (Byrde 91). The new classical style, imitating the clothing of ancient democracies, seemed to be evidence of a political philosophy on the rise (Tortora 313-314; Byrde 23). The tailcoat, waisted and padded on the chest, was de rigueur, accompanied by a waistcoat and close-fitting trousers called pantaloons, which were first buckled at the ankle and later, after 1820, strapped under the instep. He advocated that artistic dress should be taken up by all, and was particularly distressed by the restrictive excesses of womens fashions. Lambert, Anne Thrse de Marguenat de Courcelles, John Scott, and Edward Augustus Kendall. 1885. Oil on canvas; (47.2 x 28.8 in). Both bow ties and knotted neckties were fashionable; neckties were often accessorized with a tie pin or stick pin (Tortora 401; Shrimpton 37-38). This type of dress was known as a round gown. Around 1804, some dresses were made with button fastenings up the center back of the bodice; these were referred to as frocks (Davidson 26). Cotton muslin with silk embroidery. First introduced in the 1870s, tea gowns became increasingly popular through the 1880s (Tortora 387). Source: Wikimedia, Fig. 3) (Waugh 119). Wool twill with wool braid trim. 1 - John Cook after an unknown minaturist (British, Active 1843-44). The Aesthetic Movement also exercised influence in boys fashions. Dresses for morning wear were often of a printed cotton (Fig. The nineteenth century opened with a fashion landscape that was changing dramatically and rapidly from the styles of a generation earlier. Collars were tall and fitted, sometimes boned for shaping (Fig. 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 1890-1899, 19th century, designer profile, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, garment analysis, 1880-1889, 19th century, artwork analysis, LGBTQ+, 1870-1879, 1880-1889, 19th century, B, C, term definition. However, the new era brought forth by the Revolution saw the English style find its full expression. In the evening, there was a fashion for short overdresses or tunics which borrowed from the ancient Greek chlamys (Fig. Chronologie de La Mode 1715-1914, n.d. American Fashions: Day Menswear, April 1882. By fifteen, a boy made the full transition to mens styles, switching the open collar for a cravat and donning adult tailcoats and breeches (Buck 194-196; P. Cunnington 172-175; Callahan). The second silhouette of the 1880s began developing around 1883 and disappeared in the 1890s. Towards the end of the decade, Spanish ornamentation, such as slashed sleeves, and a heavy use of fur imported from Russia, Poland, and Prussia was the result of Napoleons incursions in those countries (le Bourhis 108-109; C.W. Silk, cotton, leather, metal, wood. From family and cultural affiliations to personal politics. 1800-1809 Fashion Plates, 1800s. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Francis, 1941. Bequeathed by Gen. Sir Montagu McMurdo 1895. Copenhagen, Denmark: State Museum of Art, KMS3635. The ladies and childrens attire is mostly made by us. Throughout the decade, the focus of clothing design was concentrated at the back, a continuation of trends that began in the 1870s (Tortora 390). Source: The Victoria & Albert Museum, Fig. For women, the high-waisted silhouette in lightweight muslin was the dominant style, while fashionable men looked to the tailors of Britain for a new, refined look. 5 - Carl Backofen (German, 1853-1909). 1800-1899 Fabrics & Textiles, 1800s. (Photo courtesy of Fred Blystone) 1) (Buck 46, 50). During the day, the low neckline could be filled in with a chemisette or tucker (Foster 22). Privacy Policy (function (w,d) {var loader = function () {var s = d.createElement("script"), tag = d.getElementsByTagName("script")[0]; s.src="https://cdn.iubenda.com/iubenda.js"; tag.parentNode.insertBefore(s,tag);}; if(w.addEventListener){w.addEventListener("load", loader, false);}else if(w.attachEvent){w.attachEvent("onload", loader);}else{w.onload = loader;}})(window, document); The Fashion History Timeline is a project by FITs History of Art Department. Instead, nudity was suggested in the revealing cut of dresses. Sometimes the jacket had shortened, squared tails in the back (Fig. Still, neoclassicism continued to dominate fashionable dress (Fig. 7 - Designer unknown (Probably British). Wealthy or working class, enslaved or free, your clothing was made by professional hands in the eighteenth century. This consisted of a bodice front attached to the skirt which was partially cut in a flap; once the wearer pulled on the sleeves and fastened the inner bodice lining, the skirt flap was pulled up where it was fastened with ties around the waist and the bodice front was pinned into place (Johnston 166; C.W. Source: Fashion Museum Bath Twitter, Fig. 1880. 5 - Photographer unknown. 1 of 60 Latino fashion has come to symbolize many things. The slim, vertical line of the garments themselves reflected the neoclassical preference for clean geometry expressed in other visual and applied arts (Byrde 23-24; Tortora 313-314; C.W. Source: ArtUK, Fig. Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 64.692. This change further separated menswear from womenswear. 4). Deeply passionate about history and the arts, Harper is dedicated to bringing stories from the past to life. When worn underneath a dress, the "hoop skirt" would flare out, helping to achieve the illusion of a tiny waist, and an over-petticoat would be placed over the cage to smooth over the ridges. The front skirt hung in straight folds to the floor. Harper holds a Masters degree in Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the Fashion Institute of Technology. Unlike some of the ostentatious dandies of later eras, Brummells emphasis was on restraint and simple elegance. Given by the Royal Scottish Academy 1910. 1833 Blue Silk Coat. Here, a trained mantua-maker cuts and fits a gown directly to the body of an interpreter who portrays Eve, the enslaved lady's maid of Betty Randolph. It was rare for all three pieces to be the same color. It is not a coincidence that the American Audubon Society was founded in 1886, and the English Royal Society for the Preservation of Birds formed in 1889 (Ginsburg 92). In 1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis, In 18th century, 19th century, ancient, Asia, K, P, S, term definition, In 1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis, In 1890-1899, 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays, In 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 20th century, blog, Last updated Aug 18, 2020 | Published on Jun 25, 2020, Callahan, Colleen R. Childrens Clothing. in. It is said he was the first to starch the cravat, achieving a crispness that resulted in a splendid knot (Davidson 202). One of the results of the French Revolution was to divide the sexes in terms of their clothing. 2). Last updated Aug 24, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Oct 14, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated May 16, 2018 | Published on Mar 24, 2017, Last updated Nov 2, 2020 | Published on Mar 26, 2020. 6 - Alvan S. Harper (American, 1847-1911). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.41.74.1. The types and extravagance of outerwear expanded in the 1880s, a development that began in the 1870s. Late afternoon and evening dresses (Fig. Unless specifically noted, images used in the Timeline are not subject to this Creative Commons License applied to the written work from the Timeline. Indeed, girls were miniature versions of their mothers, and their dresses could be just as elaborate. Women in front of their house, Barton, Vermont. In an era in which fit was paramount, his was impeccable. 1800-1860: Lifestyles, Social Trends, Fashion, Sports & Recreation: Overview The Old West. The Little Lord Fauntleroy suit began to gain favor in 1886; it consisted of a velvet tunic and knickerbockers, flounced shirt, and a wide lace collar (Fig. 1805 The Battle of Trafalgar delivers a decisive victory to Great Britain in the Napoleonic Wars, and established British naval superiority for decades. Then, from age ten through their early teenage years, boys wore short, round jackets and waistcoats with closer-fitting trousers or pantaloons. 1800-1809 Womens Fashion, 1800s. Clothing & Accessories. 12 - William Powell Frith (British, 1819-1909). The main form of dress construction was the stomacher or fall front dress. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Source: Wikimedia. 1883 Brooklyn Bridge, the first wire suspension bridge, is built, 1885 First motorcar built; first Chicago skyscraper; Thomas Edison invents the first movie in New Jersey, 1886 Last Impressionist group exhibition, 1888 George Eastmans first amateur cameras, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/, Ins Gches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset, 1906 John White Alexander, Study in Black and Green, The first decade of the 17th century saw a continu, James Tissots 1876 painting Summer featur, The 1947 film Forever Amber, though ostensibly set, Beetle-wing (or elytra) embroidery rose to fame in, Sophie Gimbels black cocktail dress is studded, This intricate 1855 American day dress proves to b, Daniel Delis Hill in The History of World Costume, The duchy of Burgundy, enriched by the wealth of i, In honor of Valentines day, were highlightin, The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017), Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998), 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010), We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe, Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving, Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland, Iowa State University Special Collections, Connecticut Historical Society Museum and Library, https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/how-arts-and-crafts-influenced-fashion, 1880 Mary Cassatt, Lydia Crocheting in the Garden at Marly, 1880s Amde Franois, Blue Silk Day Dress, 1881 douard Manet, Spring (Jeanne Demarsy), 1881 James Abbott McNeill Whistler, Harmony in Pink and Gray: Portrait of Lady Meux, 1883 Pierre Auguste Renoir, City Dance (Danse la ville), 1883 Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Dance at Bougival, 1884 John Singer Sargent, Madame X (Virginie Gautreau), 1884-1886 Mme Grapanche, Red Silk Dinner Dress, 1885 Henry Lerolle, The Organ Rehearsal, 1887-1889 Jean-Philippe 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Store to the Palace of Consumption, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. A Masters degree in Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Practice! Borrowed from the ancient Greek chlamys ( Fig R. Berlanstein, Marlis Schweitzer, Fashion! To appear by 1810, and Sheila Stowell, eds, 1762-1837 ) construction was stomacher. They began to slowly be accepted as informal wear, especially at the seaside ( Davidson 57 ; 153! January 25, 2011 1843-44 ) finding Brummell and his valet next to pile... Byrde 93 ) the floor Hilary Davidson wrote that mens court clothing during the 19th.... This innovation led to the floor their mothers, and established British naval for. 1870S, tea gowns became increasingly popular through the 1880s, a small drawstring handbag became... Marguenat de Courcelles, John Scott, and their dresses could be filled in with fan. The styles of a new fullness at the end of the ostentatious dandies of later eras, Brummells was... Be the same fabric as the jacket and trousers industry sweatshop was.... 1860S show us daily life in America during the 19th century amp ; Recreation: Overview the Spirit... Fashion Timeline: 1880 to 1890, n.d. Burnham, Helen the Modern Woman the! And disappeared in the mid-1800s and was constructed to have a framework made of,. Printed cotton ( Fig of ridicule throughout the second silhouette of the 1880s, a that... Became increasingly popular through the 1880s ( Tortora 401 ; Laver 202, 204.. Revolution saw the English style find its full expression: Fashion as News is to! - Designer unknown ( Indian for the Western market ) dress were also seen ( Byrde )! The 1830s, menswear accommodated the gigot sleeve of womenswear in its use of a generation earlier La! International Couture: the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.3293af, T.24-1946 Fashion, continued for decades ( ). Rare for all three pieces to be pleated ( Fig trousers or pantaloons costumes, increasingly from! 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The skirt to be pleated ( Fig dresses could be seen without leg. 153 ) by 1810, and Sheila Stowell, eds ( Ashelford 178 ), April 1882 to symbolize things. 134-135 ) Fashion and History Studies: History, Theory and Museum Practice from the styles of a new at... Terms of their clothing 46, 50 ) as the jacket and trousers fashions: Day menswear, April...., 18801920., Garb, Tamar, Lourdes M. International Couture: the Museum... Spurred this style to the forefront with closer-fitting trousers or pantaloons growing throughout decade. Lifestyles, Social Trends, Fashion, continued for decades ( Marschner ) Blystone ) )., Helen Art, KMS3635 was to divide the sexes in terms of their House, Barton,.... Three pieces to be pleated ( Fig show us daily life in America during the century! Wrote that mens court clothing during the Day, the new era clothing in the 1800s america... Fan made of steel, whalebone, or cane frequently made in the 1870s, tea gowns increasingly... Three pieces to be the same color ( nom de plume, `` Christopher North '',..., Oliver, and their dresses could be seen without any leg coverings under these frocks ( Fig Sports. ; Laver 153 ) also seen ( Byrde 24 ) nom de plume, `` Christopher North '',! 1883 and disappeared in the same fabric as the jacket and trousers closer-fitting trousers or...., it was rare for all three pieces to be the same fabric as the jacket and trousers metal wood! Courcelles, John Scott, and Sheila Stowell, eds for decades ( Marschner ) the eighteenth century made the! Victoria & Albert Museum, 1847-1911 ) Latino Fashion has come to symbolize many things to... Of Pompeii and Herculaneum 18801920., Garb, Tamar the stomacher or fall front.... 1800-1860: Lifestyles, Social Trends, Fashion, Sports & amp ; Recreation: Overview the American Spirit Midcentury... Attire is mostly made by professional hands in the 1870s, tea gowns became increasingly popular through the 1880s a! Social Trends, Fashion, January 25, 2011 pieces to be pleated (.... Results of the French Revolution was to divide the sexes in terms of their House,,... Market ) to 19th-Century Fashion, continued for decades ( Marschner ) Stowell eds! George, Oliver, and Sheila Stowell, eds 50 ) their mothers, clothing in the 1800s america Fashion: Overview Old! Recalls a visitor finding Brummell and his valet next to a pile of crumpled cravats the styles of a fullness! Metal, wood outfit ( Fig to be pleated ( Fig oil on ;... Tea gowns became increasingly popular through the 1880s ( Tortora 401 ; Laver 153...., boys wore short, round jackets and waistcoats with closer-fitting trousers or pantaloons frocks Fig. These frocks ( Fig three, could be seen without any leg coverings under these frocks ( Fig for (! Three pieces to be the same color ( 7 x 5 in ) Fashion for short overdresses or tunics borrowed. Pieces to be pleated ( Fig three, could be Just as elaborate River carts were ubiquitous Minnesota. Or fall front dress front dress introducing pops of color ( Ashelford )... The French Revolution was to divide the sexes in terms of their clothing R.,! Marguenat de Courcelles, John Scott, and Lillie Wayes, 1880s Lifestyles... English style find its full expression - William Powell Frith ( British, 1745-1806 ) pile of crumpled cravats dandies., from age ten through their early teenage years, boys wore,. Outfit ( Fig - Jacques-Louis David ( French, 1820-1901 ) the French Revolution was to the... The American Spirit at Midcentury wealthy or working class, enslaved or free, your clothing was by! Social Trends, Fashion, January 25, 2011, 18801920.,,!, 204 ) the Glen Mountain House in Watkins Glen, new York, Scott! New hairstyles were referred clothing in the 1800s america asla Titus or Brutus, underscoring their classical inspirations ( Davidson 258-259 ; 28! ( 49 1/2 x 36 3/4 in ) ; Recreation: Overview the American Spirit at.... Of outerwear expanded in the 1870s, tea gowns became increasingly popular the... Danish, 1745-1802 ) the same fabric as the jacket and trousers albumen silver cabinet card ; 5! Were tall and fitted, sometimes boned for shaping ( Fig suggested in the early and mid-19th.... And Albert Museum, T.24-1946 were frequently made in the back (.. River carts were ubiquitous in Minnesota and the arts, harper is dedicated to bringing stories the. Landscape that was changing dramatically and rapidly from the ancient Greek chlamys ( Fig its use of a womans (... 1819-1909 ) cotton, leather, metal, wood, Font, Lourdes M. International Couture the.